siquijor: the island of witches, mystics and healers
Nestled amongst 7,640 other islands in the Philippines, Siquijor is known for a plethora of reasons.
Its beautiful waterfalls, beaches and luxurious resorts, as well as the various tourist activities available there, make it a popular vacation destination for holiday-goers around the globe.
However, it’s its spiritual heritage (which has withstood and adapted to the colonial influence of the Philippines) that gives the island its unique and magical notoriety. Read to find out why they call Siquijor the Mystical Island of the Philippines.
When the Spanish invaded the islands of the Philippines, they noticed something odd when approaching one island in particular. A strange glow surrounded this island, illuminating it eerily amongst the darkness of night.
This island was Siquijor, and its luminescence was thanks to the population of fireflies living on its land. Due to this story, one of the island’s nicknames is Isla del Fuego: the Island of Fire.
Where Does the Name ‘Siquijor’ Come From?
Legend tells us that the name ”Siquijor” is actually rooted in a mistranslation between locals and Spanish colonisers. Datu Kihod introduced himself, saying “Si Kihod”, and the Spaniards mistook him for saying “Si Kihor“. So, the name Siquijor stuck.
But, of course, Siquijor is mostly known by another nickname: the Island of Healing.
Traditional healers have been prevalent on Siquijor for as far back as its history goes. Before hospitals were built there, faith healers were the locals’ solution to physical, mental or spiritual ailments. Elaborate rituals were performed to alleviate symptoms of disease, and potions and herbs were used as medicine.
Wisdom of healing was passed down through generations, to ensure the protection of these sacred practices - so well that when the Spanish invaded, spreading their Christian Catholic beliefs, healers merged their generational knowledge with elements of the religion.
One example of this amalgamation exists in the healers’ Holy Week traditions. Holy Week is the week beginning on Palm Sunday and ending on Easter Sunday, when Jesus Christ was said to have been reborn.
Healers gather materials from the enchanted forests on the island during holy week, such as tree bark, small insects and an array of plants and herbs.
They infuse oils with these materials, use them to make teas, and can carve amulets out of them to protect the wearer from the evil eye - fusing their own culture with Christianity in doing so.
Siquijor’s association with witchcraft comes from folk tales about witches being passed down through oral tradition. Much like many places around the world, superstition made people wary of witchcraft and evil sorcery being used against them.
Many Filipinos I met on my travels through the country were familiar with the tales of Siquijor, and some even choose to steer clear of the island, as to not be cursed by any of the rumoured mystical powers at play there.
However, my experience of Siquijor (albeit limited by the lens of tourism), was nothing but positive. I left enchanted, in a good way.
No hexes or curses were cast, no evil spirits possessed me - I even went to a healer on the island, and left feeling uplifted and relaxed! (For more on that, click here)
Who knows; maybe the evil witches don’t tend to show their face where I frequented. My experience, as previously discussed, was totally touristy, and so any evil sorceress would find it easy to hide in the shadows, out of my sight.
(I did, however, come across a few places selling voodoo dolls and love potions, which arguably does denote the presence of some kind of black magic.)
But it also could be the Siquijor locals feeding into the popular narrative, and creating a unique experience for tourists (and making some money while they’re at it!).
To me though, it seems that the rumours of evil witchcraft being rife in Siquijor are mere misunderstandings, much like the lore behind the island’s name itself, and nothing to be afraid of.
I only met people who were kind and considerate, and didn’t feel any harmful negative energy towards me. The locals are happy to give guidance to tourists, and the faith healer I met seemed wise and pure: not wicked, nor malevolent.
Regardless of the validity of these rumours, the lore around Siquijor is like something out of a fantasy novel. Being there, you feel part of a mysterious world you’ve only ever dreamed of.
To anybody planning a trip through the Philippines - I can’t recommend visiting this island enough. It was truly magical.
